Where to Stuff Your Face in Buenos Aires

Pizza and empanada shop

I ate pretty well in 2014. Bun rieu cua (crab and tomato soup) in Hanoi, baked bbq pork buns in Hong Kong, Thai red curry in Bangkok, gado gado (stir fried veggies in peanut sauce) in Bali and kulfi ice cream with rose sauce in Kolkata are a few notable standouts. But after a year in countries that were mostly devoid of cheese, I was giddy with lactose anticipation for Argentina. Similarly, I had a lot of making up to do from months in beef-free Hindu zones, and let’s not forget how wine deficient Asia is! I had my fill of watery beer (sometimes with ice cubes to render it even thinner), longing for the substantial legs of a full-bodied glass of red. Sometimes a girl just needs her wine.

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Living La Vida Local in Buenos Aires

Tango dancers- San Telmo

For the last stop on my 15-month journey (HUGE sad face), I wanted to stay still. Instead of seeing a city for a week or two before moving on, I would plop myself in Buenos Aires for 2 ½ glorious months. There would be no vineyard trips to Mendoza; no horse scampering across the wilds of Patagonia. Nope, I was going to rent an apartment, take Spanish classes and allow the city to romance me slowly. Continue reading

Argentina Tried to Keep Me Out

Recoleta street

After traveling for a year, one gets used to things not going as planned, spending hours in front of the computer or running around town to make changes. I expect this in places like India and Cambodia, so I was shocked at the roadblocks Argentina kept throwing up. Like I was being challenged: How much do you REALLY want to come here? Not that my own incompetence didn’t play a teeny tiny role. Continue reading